Wednesday 14 November 2012

Hop On Hop Off

For those of you who find it difficult to simply walk around in a new destination or you just want a good way to orient yourself, many cities now have a "Hop On Hop Off" bus system or its equivalent.  This is an easy and very budget-conscious way to see your destination, taking in all the major sights.  The bus usually has a number of stops and some systems even have several different routes.  This allows the rider to get on and off at any point along the tour, numerous times, during a 24 hour period.  It may be helpful to take this journey shortly after your arrival in order to see the areas to which you may wish to return.  The fares are very reasonable and tickets can be purchased usually online or on the bus itself.  Often your fare includes the purchase of headphones, allowing you to listen to commentary about the city in several different languages.  I've experienced these systems both in North America and in Europe so do your homework to see if it's available on your next trip.

Coyote Cafe, Santa Fe

This restaurant is notable, not only for its vibrant cuisine, it is also the source of the Southwest style of cooking.  In 1987, Chef Mark Miller created the Modern Southwest Cooking style here; a fusion of flavours and recipes that was popular with cowboys, Native Americans, Spanish colonial settlers and Mexicans throughout the 16th century.  

The cafe's ambience is very warm and, due to the style of the cuisine, the adobe architecture is quite prevalent.  Throughout, the guests are enveloped in a cozy orange light.  Its ceiling is very high and has a series of glass rectangles hanging in various colours by thin wires.  Each one is rippled, seeming to represent birds flying overhead.  Above the open kitchen area, a video of fireplace flames is projected on the wall, adding not only to the warmth of the room, but in some cases, the heat of the food.

Which is, as always, most distinct.  We started with an organic baby lettuce salad with pears and pecan brickle in a cider vinaigrette.  A tasty twist on a classic.  We also sampled a fabulous rare ahi with foie gras.  The first main course resonated with some of that "heat," a fiery white shrimp and rice cake with basil aioli.  The second was a mesquite grilled lobster tail.  Don't think Chappy would have barbecued that on the back of the chuck wagon.  Round 'em up, boys!


courtesy of www.finetravel.com

Santa Fe, New Mexico, August 2009/2012

It's now time to discuss something a little closer to home.  Santa Fe is quite an unusual city with a proud history.  There is great respect for the Native American tribes of the region - Navajo and Apache - as evidenced by its artisans and cuisine.  Architecturally, the low adobe structures are the primary part of the landscape.  There is a definite lack of high rise structures in the Old City; it is a pleasure to be in such free and open space.  Santa Fe is the capital of the state yet it boasts no commercial airport.  Access by air must be via Albuquerque, approximately 45 minutes by car from Santa Fe.  This is a testament to the focus of the citizenry on the environmental, social and cultural needs of the area.  Tourism is an important part of Santa Fe's economy but not to the detriment of the city's resources.

The Historic Plaza dominates the Old City with benches on all four sides, colourful hanging baskets of flowers and a quaint gazebo for music or special events.  With shops on three sides supporting Native artistry such as jewelry, pottery and woven textiles, visitors can purchase beautiful remembrances of their stay.


courtesy of D.R. Craig





On the fourth side of the Plaza stands the Palace of the Governors.  Constructed in the early 17th century, this was the seat of the Spanish government.  Its walls are four feet thick and the building is made up of long rooms with a secure courtyard.  It represents 400 years of New Mexico history.  Our recent visit was during the 100th Anniversary of the state.  New Mexico became the 47th member on January 6, 1912.  

courtesy of www.nmhistorymuseum.org




Opened in May, 2009, and located directly behind the Palace, is the New Mexico History Museum.  This light and airy facility houses a number of exhibits and collections.  The early history of the region's indigenous people is presented in dioramas and photographs  as well as artifacts.  Spanish colonization, the Mexican Period and trade and commerce on the Santa Fe Trail are highlighted in similar presentations.  The museum is a testament to the pride that New Mexicans take in their heritage.


courtesy of www.nmhistorymuseum.org




One of the more exciting finds is two blocks off the Plaza in the Pueblo-Revival style building housing the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum.  The collection opened in July, 1997, and houses 1149 paintings, drawings and sculpture.  This is the largest single collection of her work but still the beautiful facility is too small.  Its wonderful neutral white spaces are used to rotate O'Keeffe's varied pieces, often presenting not only her works but also the tools she used to create them.  On our last visit, her entire campsite was set up to show how she lived in the desert during times of her research.  Georgia O'Keeffe's (1887-1986) love of the New Mexico landscape is reflected in what she referred to as "the wideness and wonder of the world as I live in it."  

courtesy of www.concierge.com




Our primary purpose for visiting this fascinating city was to attend the brilliant Santa Fe Opera.  Founded in 1957 by New York conductor, John Crosby, it has become one of the world's leading opera festivals.  Producing such traditional pieces as Puccini's Tosca and premieres like Morrison's Oscar - about the life of Oscar Wilde - the Opera draws international vocalists, directors and designers.  In 1965, a training program was added in order to expose new artists to its wonders.  The building itself is adobe style, blending art and nature, open to the air and nestled in the mountains just outside the city.  The current version of the facility opened in 1998 with seating for 2128 and 106 standing spaces.  This open-air theatre has panels on its south side to defend against substantial winds and rain.  A particular feature of the building is its roof.  Not only is it shaped in such a way that the sound flows perfectly from the stage to the audience, it also collects 60,000 gallons of rainwater each year for maintaining the grounds.

courtesy of www.santafeopera.org